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One week Fly to Urgench from where it's a short shared-taxi ride to the 'museum city' of Khiva.

Spend a day wandering around the walled old city, Ichon-Qala.

Khiva (p252) The last independent khanate frozen in time amid the desert.

Crafty Uzbekistan Silk in Margilon (p220), ceramics in Rishton (p221), suzani (silk and cotton coverlets) in Shakhrisabz (p232) and everything under the sun in Bukhara (p246).

Despite it all, the Uzbek people remain good-spirited and genuinely hospitable - yet another prime attraction in this oddly endearing country.

FAST FACTS Area 447,400 sq km Capital Tashkent Country Code f Bj 998 Famous For Plov, tasty pomegranates, Samarkand, Timur (Tamerlane), being Borat's neighbour Languages Uzbek, Russian, Tajik, Karakalpak Money Uzbek sum; US

One week Fly to Urgench from where it's a short shared-taxi ride to the 'museum city' of Khiva.Spend a day wandering around the walled old city, Ichon-Qala.

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One week Fly to Urgench from where it's a short shared-taxi ride to the 'museum city' of Khiva.

Spend a day wandering around the walled old city, Ichon-Qala.

Khiva (p252) The last independent khanate frozen in time amid the desert.

Crafty Uzbekistan Silk in Margilon (p220), ceramics in Rishton (p221), suzani (silk and cotton coverlets) in Shakhrisabz (p232) and everything under the sun in Bukhara (p246).

Despite it all, the Uzbek people remain good-spirited and genuinely hospitable - yet another prime attraction in this oddly endearing country.

FAST FACTS Area 447,400 sq km Capital Tashkent Country Code f Bj 998 Famous For Plov, tasty pomegranates, Samarkand, Timur (Tamerlane), being Borat's neighbour Languages Uzbek, Russian, Tajik, Karakalpak Money Uzbek sum; US$1 = 1238S; €1 =1628S Phrases Salom alelkum (Hello); Rakhmat (Thank you) Population 25.2 million HIGHLIGHTS Samarkand (p223) The breathtaking Registan leads a formidable cast of larger-than-life Timurid architectural gems.

Seen in person, the Big Three do not disappoint (the occasional overzealous restorative effort notwithstanding).

= 1238S; €1 =1628S Phrases Salom alelkum (Hello); Rakhmat (Thank you) Population 25.2 million HIGHLIGHTS Samarkand (p223) The breathtaking Registan leads a formidable cast of larger-than-life Timurid architectural gems.

Seen in person, the Big Three do not disappoint (the occasional overzealous restorative effort notwithstanding).

On your last day in Tashkent catch an opera and a museum or two.

Latin jazz icon Pete Escovedo describes his new live album, “Pete Escovedo: Live from Stern Grove”, recorded at San Francisco’s historic 75-year-old Stern Grove festival earlier this year, on which he’s joined by Sheila E.

/01,02 3 ( & ) ,,1 & ) 1 ,, % & & 45 7-$* 888 5 '3 945 3 ) : ; 3 $ # % $ $( %$ $ ( !

Summer is long, hot and dry; spring is mild and rainy; autumn has light frosts and rains; and winter, although short, is unstable with snow and temperatures below freezing.

From June to August average afternoon temperatures hit 32°C or higher.

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